Sack Coats
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Welcome to the Federal Sack Coat Project:

bulletCoats that are FINISHED! (Updated 5/10/01)
bulletPhotos of a finished coat (Updated 2/20/01)
bulletSynopsis of the Project
bulletProject Updates (Updated 5/10/01) Remaining sack coats nearing completion
bulletComment on your Coat
bulletWhats the Cost?
bulletOrder a Coat
bulletCheck the Counter (Updated 11/27)
bulletThis page will be continually updated as information is received. -PC

ANNOUNCEMENT:

LOST ADDRESSES!!!
Pat Gaughan
Jim Fortnum

You two men I have let down.  I was irresponsible, and lost your addresses.  You will both recieve 20% off of any garment of your choice should you choose to purchase from me in the future.  I apologize for this mistake, and please e-mail me with your addresses so I can send your coats to you.
Howard Mitchell (first on waiting list) Email Bouncing!
Howard, we have a coat for you but we need your money by 4/25. Otherwise your coat goes to the next fella on the waiting list. Please help us locate Howard.

Received your coat?

Share your thoughts here, or see what others have said: (note - only enough space for about 2 paragraphs, if you have more than that to say, please use multiple posts.)

Leave your comments

See other comments

Coats that are FINISHED!

Please see the listing below. If you are marked PAID your coat is ready to go in the mail (althought at last word, Brandon was waiting on some buttons.) If you are marked UNPAID you'll need to get a MONEY ORDER (not checks) in the mail to Brandon immediately. Brandon WILL NOT send coats out until you are Paid in Full.

If Brandon hasn't received your payment within 30 days of this posting he'll be forced to sell it those on his waiting list. Here's his address.

The last are coming!!! The last thirteen coats will be delivered by the end
of May.  Please send the money orders in as soon as possible, for I am
leaving my current address.  If you will not be able to make that dead line,
drop me a line and let me know, and we will work something out.  Here are the
last thirteen sizes, names and addresses!

18. Brett Keen #3 (2 coats) 25. Tom Alleman #4
19. J.D. Gille #3 26. Tom Clegg #4
20. William Little #4 27. Lester Schumacher #4
21. David M. Fulcher #4 28. Drew Bechler #4
22. Joe Hofmann #4 29. Pat Gaughan (lost address)
23. Dave Cortez #4 30. Jim Fortnum (lost address)
24. Scott Rader #4


Coats that are finished and shipped:

1. Frank Aufmuth 6. Paul Calloway
2. Jason W. Reinholz 7. Tim Kindred
3. Dave Bushmol 8. Jay White
4. Cody Williams 9. John Pillars
5. Fred Jordan 10. Alex Vasquez

Size 4's: (3/25/01) The following list of folks have until 4/25/01 to get Brandon all your money or your coat gets sent off to the next fellar on the waiting list.

11. Todd Price

PAID

12. Pat Gaughan PAID
13. T.J. Bruegger PAID
14. Rober Carter PAID
15. John Shoptaw (missed deadline) UNPAID
15. John Maksymowski (next on waiting list) UNPAID
16. Jay Babcock  (dropped out of the hobby) UNPAID
16. Howard Mitchell (first on waiting list) PAID
17. Jim Fortnum PAID

Photos of a Finished Coat:

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Jacket
< Click for Larger Views >
Cuff View
Note tapering top-stitch
Front View
Buttonhole & Topstitching
Note: Logwood dyed linen thread not cotton
Lining
Note: 1 of 7 linings used in manufacturing these reproduction coats

Back View

Collar
Note: Wavy stitch & 4 piece back
Sleeve Lining
Note: Closeup of this particular inner lining using 2/2 cotton twill as per original.

Special thanks to Alex Vasquez for being our runway model... and for supplying his own buttons.

Synopsis of the Project:

A run of 30 Early war Sack coats will be made (by Brandon Jolly of the Dirty Shirts Mess) and ready for delivery by the end of January 2001.  Details yet to come about which coat is to be copied.  Sack Coats located in St. Louis, MO are the targets for reproduction.   They will be cut, sewn and finished in a way as to try to duplicate the production process of the arsenals they came out of.  Yard goods will be bought in mass, cut in bulk, and sewn as they would have been sewn.  However, quality will not be sacrificed.  Supporters of this project can rest assured they will recieve a jacket as well made, and as authentic as any other offered on the market today. 

The jacket will be patterned off of one of the jackets located in St. Louis.   When they are made, the pattern and characteristics will be followed, but individual differences will occur.  I am shooting for 30 finished coats out of the amount of materials I will use.  I will take only 30 orders.  However, after the coats are cut, and after I have conserved the materials from that, I will most likely have more than 30 coats available.  That extra number will be told after the first 30 are cut.  Keep checking for the details of the jacket to be made.  This is just the idea of one person.  If the interest is here, the project will go through.

Project Updates:

Sack Coat Update 5/9/01

LOST ADDRESSES!!!
Pat Gaughan
Jim Fortnum

You two men I have let down.  I was irresponsible, and lost your addresses.  You will both recieve 20% off of any garment of your choice should you choose to purchase from me in the future.  I apologize for this mistake, and please e-mail me with your addresses so I can send your coats to you.

The last are coming!!!  The last thirteen coats will be delivered by the end of May.   Please send the money orders in as soon as possible, for I am leaving my current address.  If you will not be able to make that dead line, drop me a line and let me know, and we will work something out.  Here are the
last thirteen sizes, names and addresses!

3  Brett Keen (2 coats)    Blion84088@aol.com
3  J.D. Gille                     JD_Gille@dg.com
4  William Little               Littlebryn@peoplepc.com
4  Joe Hofmann               Winger6049@aol.com
4  Dave Cortez                reenacting@hotmail.com
4  Scott Rader                 bangpitcher@blazenet.net
4  Tom Alleman (took place of Andrew Heberling)  talleman@online.emich.edu
4  Tom Clegg                   tomclegg@earthlink.net
4  Lester Schumacher     Schumacherl@dmh.state.md.us
4  Drew Bechler               drew@asconline.com

That is it.  If your name appears on this list, and you have actually dropped out of the list, let me know so I can correct my mistake.  If an e-mail address is wrong, let me know so I can correct it.  Thank you for your patience, and willingness to take a chance with a new idea.  Keep checking
back within the next 6 weeks or so for Confederate garments.  Lets keep this ball rolling.  I have enjoyed conversing with you all, and hope to meet all of you sometime in the field.

Brandon L. Jolly

Sack Coat Update 4/10/01

This is the waiting list for the sack coats.   If your name is not on this list, and we have not previously spoken, e-mail me and let me know.  Otherwise, if your name is not on this list, and you have been notified that a coat is available for you, then your name will appear on the normal list
when the coat becomes available for shipment.  Thank you all for your patience, and support.

#1   (4)        John Maksymowski     CristaWave@aol.com
#2   (4)        Tom Alleman              talleman@online.emich.edu
#3   (2)        Jose Suarez               jsuarez@weber-pr.com
#4   (4)        Jason Bently              chickenneckjason@yahoo.com
#5   (4)        Scott Sheets              SyLibby36@aol.com
#6   (3)        Bill Wilkins                 Wilkins_bill@yahoo.com
#7   (3)        John Culp                   Culp2000@hotmail.com

#8   (4)        Jeff Griffith               ottodog@ix.netcom.com

Sack Coat Update 3/25/01

Brandon finished seven more coats over the last week. The names of those seven gentlemen are listed above. Please get your money in within the 30 time frame or your coat goes to the first guy on the waiting list. (and yes there is a waiting list.)

Sack Coat Update 3/14/01

All the collars are done, he's finishing sleeves tomorrow. Should have yet another batch of coats ready to go by this weekend or first of next week.

Sack Coat Update 3/01/01

Got a note from Brandon and the buttons are in so expect to start getting your coats now.

Sack Coat Update 2/15/01

Scrath that last statement - Brandon got backordered on buttons. As I understand it, the coats that are finished are still waiting on those buttons to come in which should be literally any day. My fault here, not Brandon's (PC). Sorry if you've been waiting by your mailboxes!

Sack Coat Update 2/12/01

Four of the size fours were mailed today, size twos should all be in the mail assuming everyone has paid.

Sack Coat Update 1/21/01

Due to the lack of room I have to hold all of the Sack Coats, and everything entailed in their making, in a house that is being prepared to be sold, I must sell the coats as I complete them.  The size 2's are complete, and I am e-mailing the owners of the size 2's personally to inform them that their
coats are complete, and they may send their money orders.  All will be notified personally by e-mail when their coats are done.  They remain in speedy production. - BJ


Sack Coat Update 1/15/01

The sack coats are under way.  The size 2's are being constructed right now as the size 4's are being cut out.  When the size 4's are all cut, they will be put together while the size 3's are being cut.  The coats are looking splendid, and photographs of an unlined version may be available soon so everyone can see about what they are getting.  Completion time looks to be early to middle February.  I had better hurry though, 'cause the logwood thread is fading already;).  Regards!   Brandon J."

Sack Coat Update 12/03/00

Chicago trip:
    After a visit to the Chicago Historical Society, and observation of an original Federal fatigue blouse, the following characteristics will be seen on this run of coats.

4 piece body
2 piece sleeve
5 piece collar, (1 piece front collar, 4 piece back collar)
Collar will be interfaced with linen
Front facings will be interfaced with linen.
Tapered front facings, button side lacks the third or extra top stitch seen on some JT Martins. 

I will vary the tapers on individual jackets, some will be steeper, some wont.
Buttons will be spaced further apart as a standard in these jackets, some will vary. They will not be bunched towards the top of the jacket.
The cuff will be vented approx. 1 1/4".  The top stitching will rise back to the vent, but narrows towards the front of the cuff.
The top stitching throughout the coat will be very spiratic, and will vary in stitches per inch.  Approx. from 5-6 stitches / inch to 12-14 stitches / inch.
Hand done, uncorded button Holes No Markings throughout the coat.
It will be lined in:
    Gray Flannel
    Brown jean type material (not heavy material though, something new)
    Cotton Jeans of varying colors.
Sleeves will be lined in Muslin.
I will piece parts of the coats where I see fit (facings etc.)

Overview:
In general this coat was EXTREMELY hastily made.  It was a very well made piece however.  The stitching throughout the coat seemed as though the seamstress was drunk.  This was very evident in the pocket stitching, collar, and cuffs.  This coat was exactly what I was looking for.  It is the product of a production line, and showed every characteristic of a hasty process. You will recieve in all practicality, just a sack coat.  Nothing special, no real defining characteristics.  This coat was not a JT Martin as promised.  I am making a coat as close to an original as I possibly can.  I am not making special sizes, or taking special requests.  All of you who have supported this project will be pleased with the final product.  I thank you all for your support.  As they start to get finished, I will try to photograph the first ones to post on line to ease anticipation.  I will keep everyone updated.  I am dying the thread this weekend."


Sack Coat Update 11/26/00

All coats sold!

Sack Coat Update 11/22/00

With only a few coats left, final ordering information is available. Materials have been ordered, and construction will begin within a month.  I have received the dye for the thread I am using.  I am using cotton thread (which was used per a sample analyzed from an original coat) dyed in logwood.  The dye came from New York, and I am dying my own thread to stitch the coats since good, strong logwood thread is not available.  The Federal blue kersey is coming from Pat Kline, in two shades of blue.   Some will be lighter, some will be darker, some may be mixed due to facing piecing etc.  Lining is yet to be ordered pending observation of the originals.   Flannel, jean, domet flannel, etc., will most likely be used.  Buttons are being ordered directly from Waterbury.

When this project is done, there will be thirty Sack Coats sitting in a room, marked for their perspective sizes.  When I give the "OK" to send money orders, this is what will happen:
I will receive a money order, and with that order is the man's name, and his size.  I will check the name off of the list I have compiled, I will reach into the pile of Sack Coats, and I will grab that man's size, and send it out.  No one will choose what their sack coat looks like.  They will all look extremely similar, with the only major differences being linings.  In essence this is an issue of Sack Coats.   All can rest assured that there will no outrageous wierd linings, or questionable characteristics. 

Once it is posted that I am accepting money orders, the sack coats will be held for one month.  After that one month, the Coats will then become available to those on a waiting list.  If I receive a money order before the coats are finished, I will send it back.  This keeps everyone untied from each other, protects the consumer from ridiculous waits for a product, and keeps everyone happy with me.  As of 11-22-00, there are six coats left.  When the last are sold, I will have posted a complete list of the thirty who ordered a coat.  Then I will take names for a waiting list. 
   

I am not a business, therefore I will be accepting money orders only
Make money orders payable to:
Brandon L. Jolly
6650 Primrose Ct.
Bettendorf, IA
52722

Thank you all for your interest and support in my project.

Sack Coat Update 11/13/00
Thread, buttons and Kersey (from Pat Kline) all on order. Material to be used for linings will not be chosen until after the originals have been reviewed.

Sack Coat Update 10/27/00
"An Appointment has been set to view, document, and pattern Sack Coats in Chicago Illinois. The appointment is set for December 1. The Sack Coats thought to be in St. Louis, have moved, and no one knows where they are. The exact identity of the Sack Coats in Illinois are not known for sure, however, it is known they do not show the characteristics of JT Martin Contract Sack Coats. The next post will be shortly after the sack coats are viewed. The post will detail the jacket, and the exact materials to be used to make the run of Sack Coats, down to the thread to stitch it. Due to legalities, photographs of the original Sack Coats can not be published, but a detailed description will be available. Also, ordering information will be available at that time. The Sack Coats will be sold at $135.00 plus shipping." You'll have 30 days to get your payment to Brandon Jolly after the coats are completed. If Brandon has not received your payment in that time period, the coat will be sold to someone else.

Sack Coat Update 10/05/00
This project is a Go! Keep checking back for more info.

Order a Coat:

Ordering a coat will get more sophisticated in the next couple months, but currently send an email here to inquire of the maker.

Check the Counter:

The Sack Coat Counter:

Sold:

30

Left:

0

There is a waiting list in case any of these buyers back out. To have your name added or inquire about the waiting list, send an email to Brandon Jolly here.

Counter last updated 11/17/00.

 

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Copyright Paul Calloway, 2001.
For problems or questions regarding this web contact
pcalloway@mailcity.com of G.H. Thomas' Invincibles.
Last updated:July 30, 2001.